Got it. Yeah, that’s quite the price jump to go P1, but at least you can get what you want.
It depends on the paint you want. If you choose one of the standard liveries I believe P1 ‘only’ costs $500 more. But if you get one of the custom colors it will run you up to +$1,500. But, by the time you’re going P1, I think you should really just get what you want. If that’s just one of the standard colors, like the Trek Factory Racing paint, then great it doesn’t cost you too much more. I think I would go the Solid Minimal Logo design with a white on white look. I like the clean look and I’m sick of all the black bikes out there.
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Agreed, anything other than black is the new black 
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This very much sounds like the dilemma I’m going through at the moment. I’m really wanting to upgrade/replace my road bike. To put it in perspective, I’m riding a $750 AUD road bike on a Neo…
I basically want an all rounder for indoors on the trainer, longer outdoor rides, and (maybe?) racing if I went in that direction. I love the look of some of the new aero bikes, but my main concern (apart from price) is concern around flexibility limitations. Not sure if this is something I should just work on and if it should stop me going aero vs say an endurance road bike.
Sorry, but I agree with @nico_synergy. I’ll always advocate supporting your local bike shop, and in turn they will support you. There’s a real community spirit to cycling and often the hub is the local bike shop. They’re often run by cyclists for cyclists. Wherever possible, I’ll always buy local.
In our high streets there are too many empty units where local business have failed as they simply can’t keep up with the big online retailers.
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I am in a bit of a quandary myself. Although my daily bike is a fixed gear, which I love riding, I also have my road bike, a Stevens SCF with full Ultegra SL group (6600 I believe). Bike is great but it is approaching 10 years old and it needs a refresh (cassette, chainrings, chain, cables) and it would be nice to upgrade the wheels to carbon hoops. Add that all up and getting into up to $2K + Cdn. I also think that if I am upgrading wheels it might be a good time to disc and tubeless, especially for carbon ones. My bike isn’t disc compatible.
An equivalent bike before a carbon wheelset is well above $5K and as much as I would love one, I just can’t spend that kind of money. My alternative is getting a better aluminum frame instead of carbon (like a CAAD12) with the new 105 disc group (7020) and swap out the wheels. Even though the new Al frame and 105 is probably better than 10 year old Ultegra it feels like a downgrade to me. Maybe that’s me just being shallow and bike-snobby
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For sure, that new 105 will far surpass the feel and performance of that old Ultegra. No question on the shifting performance and lever action being much better. Labels are labels. The reality is that new group is so close to the current Ultegra that most couldn’t tell the difference without looking.
And the modern aluminum bikes today are also so much better than the aluminum of old. The tubing and welding techniques have brought them within spitting distance if carbon performance. I actually take the aluminum bike over an equally priced carbon bike, because the carbon version is a lower end build compared to top end carbon.
All that is to say the options you are considering shouldn’t be viewed as ‘downgrades’, IMHO.
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@mcneese.chad I agree totally. Objectively I know both new frames and groupsets will be as good or better, just like I think there is little value in going up from the new 105 to Ultegra. Subjectively there is that fatal flaw of human nature of wanting to keep up appearances (however, I am fortunate enough to be in a position where I can afford just about any bike I want but this is just one of several things that discretionary spending go towards). I still have several upgrades to the track bike to go too. Maybe those lottery tickets will pay off and this will all be moot.
Short of getting a deal through connections, I am leaning towards the Cannondale CAAD12 with the Shiman 105-7020 disc group and upgrading the wheels to carbon tubeless.
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How would you compare the Emonda with the Giant TCR or Specialized Tarmac for longer road rides (60-100 miles)?
I can’t because I have not ridden either of those for more than short test rides.
My Emonda’s have been almost as comfortable as my Roubaix though, and the E is much more snappy and light.
to be honest I wouldn’t take a loan for bike… It’s better to wait and save money and then to buy it
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“In general, I’m like you, but I was forced to borrow.”
I travel between Sweden and Chicago a few times a year. I do some grand randonnées while I’m there, usually (1200km), so I bring a bike.
The last time I was there I decided to buy one and just leave it there. I got on Craiglist and found a beautiful Trek Elance, full Reynolds 531, perfect fit.
The ATM’s in the US are a rip off nowadays, so I couldn’t find a decent one to pull out cash. I borrowed $220 from my mother to make the cash payment the seller required.
A Trek Reynolds 531 from 1987 is about as close as you can get to an ideal randonneur bike. That 120mm spread for the rear hub is limiting (limited to 6 sprockets, since it is a free wheel, not a cassette), but it rides nicely.
If you plan to race, I’d say a Tarmac, if you just ride for fun, the trek emonda is perfect, I absolutely loved it, it felt snappy, comfortable, looked really good too. If you have the cash, Ultegra di2 is amazing also. much better than mechanical dura ace etc.
good luck 
dont borrow.
I don’t have the Emonda comparison but I have a Tarmac SL6 rim brake and Giant TCR Advanced Pro 1 (in Poland the version is called Team Edition) disc. I have got plenty of road bikes in my life and in terms of comfort there are no significant differences. I know, it could sound ridiculous but give me a chance :). It’s all about the position adjustments and a few tricks with tyre pressure, components selection. Of course, I assume that you have a modern frame with at least 28mm tyre clearance and compact geometry. You can make this comparison between stock configurations but from my experience almost always the stock configuration is temporary. I have to change seat post (I need 0 offset almost in all modern frames), handlebar (in my frame size is usually 42cm and very often the reach and drop is too big for me, I prefer longer stem and short reach, small drop configuration), saddle, stem (because of the length), handlebar tape. The wheelset is very important. In my Giant TCR the stock wheels are very comfy and stiff at the same time, my other pair of wheelset (local brand, Evenlite) are great, fast, stiff, lite but not too comfy. And the tyre plus the pressure in them. I use at least 25mm tyres. Lately even 28mm. Only tubeless with relatively low pressure like 5-6 bars depends on the tyres. I prefer soft tyres: Conti 5000, Schwalbe Pro One, the Giant Gavia are great (I didn’t expect that, they came with my bike). So, in my opinion, in terms of comfort, you can adjust almost all bikes to your needs. But one more important thing is the geometry. Sometimes with specific geometry you want to be able to find the best position for you. The layup can be great, you can have additional shock absorbers etc. but you can’t find the proper position for your body. So, in LBSes or fitting labs you can sometimes find those machines with preconfigured different bike models, you can sit on that and you can try how it feels, what sizes of specific components you will need to adjust the bike to your needs and you can compare it with the stock configuration.
Ok, I know, the thread is old but I want to reopen it I’m on the market right now (tough time, not much stuff available right now, at least in Europe) for the one bike to rule them all. In my mind it should be more a road than a gravel bike. I like to call the concept “road plus bike”.
I’m looking for a sport-oriented, agile, light and fast do-all road/cx/gravel bike. My dream is to have one bike (for now I own 3 road bikes and one heavy duty gravel bike) to rule them all. Easy…I don’t want to replace them all with one bike 
, I just want to sell at least one road bike, the current gravel one will be my winter/tough terrain bike and the one I’m looking for should be for gravel races, cx races and training on the road, in a fast group rides etc. At least a few weeks each year I spend in the mountains (typically in the Alps but not restricted to the area) and I want to be able to explore gravel roads and road passes with high speed. I can’t take 2 bikes with me so I want to have 2 sets of wheels: the gravel wheels with 32-35mm tyres and road wheels with 25-28mm tyres. It means, the bike should be more road, race oriented, agile bike but with bigger tyre clearance to make it an off road capable machine. The description is suitable for a CX bike but…today most of them are 1x and I don’t want to change all components after the purchase - it’s economically irrational
I prefer 105 or Ultegra mechanical options with ultegra RX on the back (alternatively GRX option). Compact chainrings at the front (50/34) and big cassette on the back (11-32/34). My dream weight is <8kg and I don’t want to spend like my year’s salary on that. Let’s say, the whole purchase should cost me around 5k $.
I had a few ideas:
- Superior Team Issue Ultegra https://superiorbikes.eu/en/2020/road-gravel/x-road-team-issue/matte-silver-dark-chrome (not available in 2021, sold out)
- Votec VRC VRC PRO | VOTEC (this one is available, but the geometry just doesn’t look aggressive, the looks of the bike is…hmmm…strange is not ugly but I don’t know what I should think about it and in my opinion you should love the looks of your bike)
- Ridley Kanzo Speed https://www.ridley-bikes.com/product/kanzo-speed-2/#/catalogue/kanzo-speed (poor configuration for the money and availability is the issue - 8-9 months to have one)
- Canyon Inflite (https://www.canyon.com/pl-pl/road-bikes/cyclocross-bikes/inflite/inflite-cf-sl-7/2656.html?dwvar_2656_pv_rahmenfarbe=WH%2FBU not available now; the top tube shape is great for CX but in other cases is just sth wrong with it)
- Rondo HVRT (Rondo - The future is beyond tarmac great looking bike, with 650B wheels option but with non standard axles dimensions, so I have to buy another pair of wheels and it will be a problem with a turbo trainer’s adapters etc.)
Any other thoughts, ideas, propositions would be more than welcome. Thx in advance
Open U.P. would be a possibility, though it’s probably out of budget, ditto a 3T exploro.
A Mason Bokeh might work (weight could be an issue).
Have you looked at the Cube Cx bikes?
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Thx. Open U.P. yes, I know, I wish but with good quality build is much above the budget. 3T Exploro is an option indead. I forgot about it. Cube CX - I looked at the range but I don’t like the color scheme. Mason Bokeh - I don’t know the brand I will get a look at it. Thx.
I have a Mason Definition and that is a great bike. Tbh, I might well be tempted to suggest that to you, but clearance might be an issue. It will definitely take 32s without mudguards, though.
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My Giant TCR can take 32mm tyres, even 33 slick is possible. I definitely need clearence for 35mm tyres. I don’t need more than that but 35mm is the must. Thx for the advice!
Cervelo aspero should be on the list.
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