Chain Waxing Tutorial


Hi zero friction Cycling website is a good source to read up on waxing . If you ride in wet conditions a lot you have to WAX more frequently, a solution could be having several chains and swap them and than have 1 Day were you wax them


Any more feedback on the Wend Wax? Feedback in general seems positive and I really like the ease of application.

I am not worried about a couple watt difference between Wend and the other wax process. I am sick of grease everywhere and the simplicity of their application process has me very intrigued.


I’m still liking it. Keeps the chain clean and quiet, goes on easily, and I don’t have black fingers every time I work on my bikes. I’m sticking with it for the foreseeable future.


Correct me if I’m wrong but if you don’t intend to reuse the links there is no difference between a quick link and using a pin?

Why would a person choose one over the other?


One is SIGNIFICANTLY easier than the other to install.


I’ve read pins aren’t as safe/reliable. The pin needs to be inserted accurately down to the 0.1mm to be as strong as a quick link. Hard to do with the naked eye.

I think I asked this same question earlier in this thread.


Sure. Might be a dumb question but why does reusing the quick link make it more likely to fail?


I think for many it is not so much about the gains, but to have a clean(er) drive train which needs less degreasing. (While I don’t wax my chains, cleaning my drivetrain is my least favorite cycling-related activity.)


For both of the reasons @RONDAL and @DaveQB have said.

You’d have to ask the manufacturers that. What I would say is that I reused the non reusable quick links many times before I started waxing and never had one fail. I have had couple (of the non reusable quick links) fail since I’ve been waxing chains - if I were to guess as to why I think that maybe I’ve been changing chains more regularly thus reusing them more often, and the repeated heating/cooling from the hot wax weakens the chain over time?

Once I’d used those links though I bought the reusable links and had no more issues as yet.


I’ve started this process of chain cleaning, and I have one more tip. (obvious in retrospect…)
When you use white spirit to clean the chain DON’T do it the pain cave, right next to your bike/trainer.
The industrial smell isn’t great when you train breathing it in…


Haven’t seen if someone addresses this without actually replying but I put my chains and cassette into a big zip lock bag and add simple green or whatever cleaner you’re using into that. You then drop that into the ultrasonic cleaner and fill the balance of the volume with near boiling water.

I’ll then run the cycle on the cleaner, sometimes pour out the cleaning fluid, rinse and repeat the whole process) but when it’s all done you have a dirty zip-lock you can toss and a shiny and clean ultrasonic cleaner.


I’m surprised I can’t find new chains without factory grease added for sale somewhere?
Should be cheaper to make as well!
Has anyone found any?


Who makes the best waxed chains that you can buy?


The chains themselves will just be ones you can ordinarily buy yourself that have been treated. In terms of the treatment it depends on how robust the process is. You can find some research and testing online but I can’t imagine there’s a huge difference in what’s available.

The difference between a waxed chain and a non waxed chain can be reasonable, between two different types of waxed chain probably not so much.


I’ve waxed my first chain - lots of cleaning on new chain and used molten speed wax.
It was a solid rod of links afterwards.
Quite hard to get the links to move again.
I seemed to get a lot of wax onto the chain in general
On the workstand it sounds noisy, almost squeaky, should I

  1. rewax again?
  2. run in and see what happens.?


Having to ‘break’ the links from the solid wax is normal. Run it in and it should be fine.


Thanks - it all looks very smooth on the chainrings etc, no skipping or anything else.
It’s too snowy for an outdoor test so that will just have to wait.


Yep! I have the FrictionFacts data. Molten Speed Wax is only a shade over 100 MILLI-Watts better than Squirt. That’s in the uber-controlled FrictionFacts test setup.

So let me just say this: If you are spending all this time, effort, equipment in the hopes of securing 100 milliwatts…stop it. :wink: Just go get some squirt & clean/lube your chain the way you always have. Spend the money you save on some beer. Spend the time you save drinking that beer.

The only caveat would be that wax and/or molten speed wax would be a better option in especially dirty/muddy conditions. But still, Squirt is pretty good there as well.


Debating whether or not to take the plunge here. Wife doesn’t like the fact that the drivetrain is greasy and we have little ones running around the house. Seems like a really good excuse for me to start waxing, nevermind that it’s faster (marginally so over Squirt).

I’m not terrific at cleaning my bike/drivetrain as frequently as I probably should, as I ride in dry conditions or indoors. I think maybe the waxing is a good way to compensate for that fact. Admittedly, the drive train cleaning is probably my least favorite thing to do on my bike. Would most of you who are waxing now say that you spend less time on the waxing process (perhaps by doing multiple chains at once) overall than you did cleaning the drivetrain frequently?

I ride probably 100 miles (or trainer equivalent) per week right now, so I think I’d get about two weeks out of each waxing, and I’d probably plan to wax two or three or four chains at once, swapping as necessary.


There’s probably not much in it overall for me. The difference however as you say is that I clean several chains over the course of a day rather than a single drive chain more frequently. Once you have the process down it might seem like it’s time consuming but it’s not like you need to be eagle eyed over it the whole time. Just pick a day you are doing other bits around the house and work your way through them.

I tend to spend a good amount of time (8-10-12 hours depending on the time of year) on the trainer and probably change the chain every 3-4 weeks.

Aside from performance though the cleanliness is the biggest advantage. My wife has similar opinions to yours, (despite the fact one of the bikes is hers!) and it’s a huge win to be able to work on the bikes without getting dirty oil on everything.