Does anyone still use a Powertap G3 Hub?



In this arena of new power meters, someone still uses the Powertap Hub?
Would you buy it again?

Thanks in advance.



I have 3 different powertaps from the first wireless to what I think is a G2 just before G3 upgrade.

There is an old addage - 'what type of power meter should I buy? ’ can be answered by ‘what type of problem do you want to have’. Id buy it again if I wanted another wheel based.

Pro’s you can move from bike to bike with some work (but when one bike is disc brake and another is not it gets harder), cost is OK, and so far performance is great.

Con’s - not the easiest to move (pedals are the easiest IMO) and normally laced to heavier wheels. There is also a dork factor rocking it in a race, and its never going to be the lightest power meter option for you.

I personally use a PowerTap on my B road bike, and my CX/gravel which is what gets the most miles. My A race road bike and track bike swap garmin vectors back and forth


I bought the Powertap Amp 35 wheelset as an upgrade to my stock wheels.

I saved weight, got carbon, got a little more aero, and got a power meter all in one purchase. (They were on sale at the time too.)

The G3 has been reliable and convenient, since I don’t swap wheels on that bike.

My gravel bike has a P2M NGeco on it, and when I get a new road bike, I’ll probably go with crank- or pedal-based power so I can swap wheels.


I’ve actually got a PowerTap GS hub. I got it when they were on close out, wired up to a DT Swiss RR 511 rim.

It works. All the time. It does mean that I have exactly one wheel choice to make for races (“do I put the disc wheel cover on or not?”), but before I bought this wheel I had exactly one rear wheel anyway; I don’t really anticipate being in a position where I have an array of wheel options.

If you have a direct drive trainer, you can’t use TR Power Match because you remove the wheel to hook up to the trainer; but I have a STAC Zero trainer, so I was able to calibrate its power meter against my PowerTap, so now I have confidence that I am seeing the same watts for the same effort whether I’m on the trainer or out on the road.

The hub is supposedly the best place for a power meter if you are doing aero testing at home, since you are measuring power at the wheel against speed at the wheel to figure out drag (drive train losses would add extra noise between power output and speed generated).

If/when I get a bike with disc brakes I would be happy to get the disc brake PowerTap, and as long as I have a bike with rim brakes, I will continue to use this hub even if I have to rebuild the wheel eventually.


I have a G3 hub on a steel day tourer. I use spd pedals and wanted to keep my gorgeous Sugino crankset so my options were limited. It is laced in a Hunt Supadura rim and is rock solid.


Yep - I do. I love it.

In 5 years of having it, ive never had an issue, never stopped working, never bugged on me. Simply change the battery yourself every 6 or 7 months and you are golden.

I built mine into a light pair 60mm carbon wheels (less then 1700gms a pair with tape), so I have the flexibility of it all.

No regrets from me.


I have an SL+ in a HED JET 6 wheel. The price I paid for it was barely more than just the wheelset would have cost and it has been very reliable. With waxed chains on all my bikes switching is a piece of cake. The free hub body just slides off so switching from my ten to eleven speed bike is simple too.


Amp 35 is a great wheel set. I had one for a couple of years, but sadly just recently sold it, because my new bike has discs. You can still find the amp 35 from some stores and the price is very competitive.

I still have a custom wheel set with Powertap GS and it is even better than G3. I use the GS with trainerroad.


Yep, had one built up by wheelbuilder and it’s been trouble free. I’d buy it again…


I used one a few years ago and would never buy one again. Whilst the numbers were on point most of the time, it had to be repaired far too often for my liking.