Dura Ace Di2 - E-Tube programming


I have the brand new Dura Ace Di2 components. They are fully programmable with the E-TUBE app, but I can’t seem to figure it out and there are no good videos or blogs that are step by step.

I think I’d Like to use the Semi-Synchronization option, but cannot get it to program.

Does anyone have success with this?


I do not have experience with the setup and programming. However, I have been reading extensively on this as I’m in the process of a bike build myself and plan on using Di2. What I have learned is that you do NOT want to use the mobile app as it it will connect to the groupset and ask you to complete a firmware update. From that point it will not complete the update and render it totally useless. It essentially bricks the components. I’ve read that the PC app does not do this and works successfully.

More to your original question is that from what I’ve read is that the software and setup process is actually intuitive and straightforward. Again, no actual hands-on experience here. Just research from the interwebs.


I don’t have the wifli module so I just plug the charging cord I. To my pc, pull up the program, and it sorts out the new components.

I believe the synchro shifting options are loaded up whether you want them or not, once you have the right components (proper junction box, proper internal battery-both are a must)

Then you just double click the button on the junction box and watch the lights flash. One for normal, double click again-two flashes for semi, double click again-three flashes for full

I am not a roadie so I really love the full.


Definitely do everything through the PC app rather than the mobile app. I bricked my Di2 system initially by trying to use the mobile app when I was installing the wireless inline unit (really only so I can use the hood buttons to change pages on my Wahoo)


E Tube Manual: http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-G.3.0.0-01-EN.pdf
E Tube Road Edition: http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-R.3.4.1-00-EN.pdf
E Tube Website: http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/about/

Page 175 for how to program. If you don’t want to use the wifi version of the app to connect and program you’re going to need to buy the SM-PCE1 or SM-BCR2 to physically connect to a computer to make the changes. Your other option is to take it to a shop.

I have done it both ways and it is more convenient to do it via the iOS app regarding connections but it is more intuitive to make the changes via the hard connection. I have the SM-PCE1 as I have three bikes with Di2 so I thought the investment was worth it.


Mine was set to shift mode 1 was semi, shift mode 2 was full synchronized and then it goes back to normal. I used the laptop to confirm and since I have the wireless module, I used the Garmin 1030 to rotate between modes. Left it at synchronized. The Garmin also displays the mode it’s in.


i Know the top Di2 buttons could control a Garmin but didn’t realise it could also control a Wahoo. Straightforward setup?


Yes. Put it in pairing mode, add a new sensor from the headunit, and hold close to the Di2 wireless unit.

You can use the hood buttons to swap pages and control the number of fields, as well as get a readout of the gear numbers and it also writes it to the file, so you can analyze later (at least you can in WKO4)


No problem with using iOS app on iPhone or iPad, for firmware updates or synchro settings.
Easy to set button functions, change points, chain ring and cassette size. I use the use hood buttons as climbing shifters in full synchro.


Awesome, thanks!


I didn’t know the hood buttons could be mapped as shift buttons :thinking:

I also set mine up through the IOS app with no problems but I am disappointed with how slow the syncro shift is, especialy the shift to the small ring. Manually I can shift to the small ring and it feels just like a one cog change but with syncro there is always a brief moment where I am not applying any power.


I used the PC app, and it was pretty straight forward to reprogram Ultegra Di2 on my gravel bike to make it shift like (well, almost like) eTap on my road bike.

I switched things so that the right shifter shifts both front & rear derailleurs to the right (harder gear) and the left shifter shifts both front & rear derailleurs to the left (easier gear). Plus the larger shift paddle (both left & right) are for the rear derailleur, since this is what I use the most, so wanted to ensure shifting the rear was the most convenient / least likely to mis-shift on.

I really like the above shift pattern, and will implement it on my new (soon) roadbike that will also have Ultegra Di2