Last year I got a pair of Roka R1 goggles which immediately became my go to. They’re super comfy, great field of view and have never fogged up for me. They’re not cheap but so far has lasted me 6 months with no issues at all.
That, sir, is a unicorn. It doesn’t exist
I’ve got two pair and that’s my conclusion as well. I could chase something better, but they keep water out of my eyes and I can see fine. Good enough.
TYR Cycleops 2.0 for me. They work well. I’m not sure what those new goggles are but nobody should spend more than $30 on goggles.
I signed up for a 5k swim race.
They claim to measure your face with your phones camera and then produce a pair that’s individually fitted to your face. Otherwise I agree, I’d be hard pressed to justify more than 25 or 30 bucks for a pair.
I’m thinking about going for Tower 26 does anyone have a promo code for it?
Triathlon road bike question from a roadie: I have a Madone Sl7 on order - wondering if it’s possible ( I realize taking them on and off would be a bit of time) - but can I run Di2 extensions onto clip on aero bars from the box in the bike? Thx in advance for any ideas.
If it’s the newest di2 yes you can but you will need the 5 port junction a to get all the cables in, or do some pseudo junction b junction a connection
Was one of those nights where I was not happy with myself
Did Glassy, got through it, with a struggle.
Then I was supposed to go on a 80-90 min run.
I just didnt have it in me, so ended up just doing a short recovery swim instead
Had an awesome bikefit session, we had to stop after some time because I did not have the right spacers for building the front up even more. But we made some good improvements, was pedaling at 250W and the difference was HUGE! Probably gained somewhere around 25W in efficiency. And then some aerogains when we played with a greenscreen. He wanted me to come back so he could put me in a virtual windtunnel Will just have to buy some big spacers.
That position looks great!
@Simo429, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a promo code.
Last night I did something I never thought possible. My brother was in town and I was Shortoff+1 while he was doing Galena next to me. So when I got to my last set of VO2’s (319W), he said he would buy lunch if I could hold 340W for 3min. So I hit it hard and lo and behold, I averaged 410W. I gave it all I had but without the motivation of him being there and challenging me, I don’t think I could do it alone. The power of the mind! Also managed a 1.0IF for an hour workout.
I sense an FTP test in imminent
I emailed them about the free trial and they sent it to me, if anyone wants it send me a PM it doesn’t seem fair to just pop it up here
I actually noticed the same thing. Base 1 comes before speciality and weekly TSS goes also from ~350 -> 650 and sunday runs go from 1h to 2h50
Edit: Didnt introduce myself. Long time reader, first time writer in this thread. Going to IM Tallinn
Yes, I’m not a huge fan of planbuilder at this point, though I have always been a big fan of manual control of my training. For some reason it had me doing specialty -> base -> build -> specialty.
Loving reading all your posts! I’m unlikely to take part in any triathlons this year as I’m travelling. Getting out on the bike, runs and enjoying Sydneys outdoor pools though!
A question for those of you with power meters. When i return home at the end of the year I plan to buy one. I would also like a TT bike at some point in the future. Do you have two power meters, one for each bike, or are they easily interchangable? And if they are which type is the easiest?
Outdoor pools. I just want everyone to consider that reality for a moment…
A long time ago I analysed the PM situation and settled on pedals. They’re not always the best solution, but for me;
- They measure at source, this is how hard you’re working
- Mobility; I travel for holidays, I travel for work, I can even take them to my local gym if I want
- Many bikes; Triathlon, Roadie, Tourer, my son’s bike…2 mins an 8mm key and they’re ready to go!
- Racing; I get the consistency of numbers during training and on race day.
There is one, maybe significant flaw, maybe not. People tend to forget that PMs and their numbers are not truly comparable…if your buddies are talking about their Watts/kg from hub PMs and you’re talking from a pedal basis…and this leads into BestBikeSplit. Pedals measure most accurately your effort, they don’t necessarily do a good job of measuring your Watts “on the ground”; tyres, mechanical losses, and so on. So while I think they’re the best for training (closest to source) they’re the least accurate for race day pacing (farthest from output).
Not to be pedantic (but what else is the point of triathlon? lol) but now that got me thinking about ‘where’ BBS qualifies those watts at. So it says you get Y time in X watts… Is that watts on the ground? Again, a bit pedantic, but you combine a dirty drivetrain with some high rolling resistance tires and you lose what, 5 10-15w??? before you even get to pavement. That would actually affect slower riders even more, I suspect (140 vs 153 is more noticeable than 270 vs 282. Just thinking out loud.
I’m in the minority, but I really like the PowerTap hub based power meter. Been using PowerTap since 2004 back when they had a wire going from chainstay to head unit. I’ve found the PowerTap to be reliable and durable. These days I have a dedicated PowerTap wheel for my tribike and a 2nd PowerTap on my road bike, because I got a really good deal on the 2nd unit. Before that moving a single PowerTap wheel from bike to bike was no big deal.
I’ve tried the 4iiii Preciiiison left crankarm power meter and it just didn’t seem as reliable as my rock solid PowerTap.
Edited to add that I use a disc cover on race day. Bang for the buck very fast wheel at fairly low cost. The money that I save by using a low cost disc wheel cover gave me more money to spend on a nicer front wheel which hits cleaner air than the rear wheel.
You can take a relatively accurate guess if you do a bit of searching and find out what the watts lost would be, similar to your rolling resistance wrt the tires/tubes you run. Its pretty known values at this point. It will also depend on your chain-line, this is why hub based PM are always the most accurate for wattage from a race standpoint, as drive-train losses are all taken out of the equation.
I would hazard a guess (and this is just my assumption as I have not used BBS yet but plan to do it) is that when you input old race data into BBS, it would calculate a CDA value based on your output power vs speed, elevation, temp etc. and what pops out would be a “pseudo loss” constant, which would then be applied to your next rides. Typically this would just be a “losses” coefficient (or rolling coefficent depending on how fancy it is) and your drivetrain losses would be factored in, based on the previous ride data of course. So the “CDA” value that you now are using is including drivetrain losses, rolling resistance losses, etc. If you say went from grease to wax or butyl to latex, your “pseudo CDA” would drop due to the different experimental setup.
TLDR it does not matter. It would matter more for say aerodymanic testing. I have spoken to aerodynamicists and this is a major concern for having accurate pitot tube testing. Interestingly they prefer to use hub based PM as they are the most accurate, as your CdA is extremely sensitive to external losses, although if its a constant loss it shouldnt matter unless you are trying to dick measure against eachother
edit: I should note that if you used a hub based PM for your BBS analysis the drivetrain losses are not included; physics would dictate that the losses would be from all things, aerodynamics included. Since most things dont change, you can calculate a pseudo CdA from your data, although there would be noise from drivetrain losses, rolling resistance etc. but since its mostly constant, it is just lumped in the CdA you generate. Again, dosnt matter from a race perspective (you can use the value and see benefits in your personal training) but you cant compare pseudo CdA against others, unless its on the same day with the same bike in the same setup in the same gearing etc.