To PowerMatch or not to PowerMatch?

Nice tips. I am going to have to give power match another try.

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Is there any benefit to setting the kickr to be controlled by an ANT+ source in the Wahoo app over powermatch? I have a 2017 Kickr and Garmin Vector 2 pedals. I’ve always been training using just my kickr power and the riding outside with Vector pedals. Main reason for this was my trainer bike had q-rings. I’ve now had to replace drivechain so have gone back to standard rings so both bikes match and have put my vector pedals on the trainer bike to see how they compare. It seems as though there is about a 10% difference with the pedals being lower than the kickr and I’ve been following this thread with interest after previous poor performance with powermatch - I previously put this down to using q-rings hence why I stopped using the pedals indoors.
I only train for keeping fit, don’t race although I do like riding events like L’Etape so not too upset about potentially training at wrong ftp compared to my pedals but I had set myself a target of getting back to 4w/kg this year and that now feels a long way away if I use the Vectors as my power source.
Should I be treating the Vector’s as a more realistic wattage than a 2017 Kickr?

One other benefit for me of using the Wahoo app over powermatch is the Garmin Vector 2 pedals are ANT+ only and I prefer using TrainerRoad on my iPad.

It looks potentially like for some, erg and powermatch could be lose/lose at the moment.

I also have the issue that on powermatch the settling time from initial overshoot to target power can be 30secs-1min. It’s a killer when a threshold interval starts 25% over and takes 30secs to get down to target. It’s also a problem that the wahoo kickr under-reads by about 10% when cold and takes 20+ mins hard riding to warm up and match the vector peddles.

If people are seeing the same as me, then doing the first interval -10% is a cop-out, but then those +20% efforts at the start of an interval can easy break you on a workout.

I’d say then, that power match doesn’t cut it right now for those us that bought shitty trainers.

@GPLama has a video about wahoo power control. Having used power match and power control I found power control to be a bit more stable but not by much.

Thanks, I’ll have a watch. Tried it this morning, seemed to work fine although workout was harder than should have been as I forgot to drop intensity to compensate.

Yup… I gave up on it once; now I love it

@geebutbut… Well, there ya go…

the settling time from initial overshoot to target power can be 30secs-1min…

Noticed that, too - for short, abrupt intervals like short VO2 or intervals with anaerobic parts, I’ve just gone back to ERG mode. I’ve found that making big jumps in W’s in ERG is not a big deal if you keep track of the start time and just juice your legs a 1/2 second ahead of the interval start

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Wahoo’s power match did not work reliably on my Kickr 2017 direct drive. I’m using TR’s PowerMatch and very happy with it.

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Unfortunately, not having a great experience again, I thought it was solved with @mcneese.chad solution.

You can see below that it is fluctuating but the peaks give the impression it is stable. However, it seems to get worse as a function of time. The cool down at the end was pretty bad tbh. Also, during the long segments, it is making it fluctuate ±30 watts, this is incredibly knackering! (like another totally different workout.)

FYI: other apps uninstalled, my garmin head unit is however connected to my gear too, but it should not control anything. Any ideas? Urgent help needed! : (

(@Nate will also write to support.)

Zoom in off the cool down:

Update on Mine:

I was finding my quarq with powermatch really annoying and was quite mentally taxing. it wasnt very smooth or enjoyable to ride.

I decided to try and sort out the calibration on my kickr. I had done numerous spindowns and it stayed the same.

I did a factory spindown on the wahoo. IT WORKED! it finally reads good numbers. I validated it against all the power meters in the house and theyre all within a few watts of eachother. PERFECT. powermatch back off. ideal.


I am also trying to figure out why one ride in between seemed to be ok. What else could be conflicting with the signal? Wlan repeater? BT headphones? Surely they have no influence on power metrics, right? Am confused.

I updated the firmware and it seemed to work fine last workout with my Assiomos.

I updated my tacx firmware this morning again. I had a lot of issues, you can see this below:
Red: powermmatching
Black: no powermatching
blue: test with pairing the garmin edge with the trainer at the same time, it ruined the power also. Quickly disconnected.
Have opted to not use powermatching for time being until I get some kind of more info from TR or Garmin.

Very interesting. I was running TR and my Garmin 520+ simultaneously last night.

do you mix the types, i.e., ant for one and bluetooth for the other? Or use the same? I tend to use BT where possible, but the edge 530 immediately connects with ant+ and my tablet seems more stable with BT.

Ant+ for everything. Running an Ant+ USB adapter in my laptop.

For me seems good for now and happy with it. Not happy with drop in ftp however because my kickr was reading a higher power than my pedals.

Hey @eric1a2krueger

I have been trying your tip to trial-error shifting gears and it’s kind of working but hey… Did it ever happen to you that shifting gears triggered something weird and then the power target suffently felt like a whole new level?

For example, I was at mid zone 2 yesterday at one point, and I shifted gears because it kind of started feeling hard (like sweetspot) and at one point I was stuck in a situation where gear 1 would not produce enough power to meet the target, gear 2 produced just enough to barely meet the target as long as I kept cadence at a minimum of 110rpms (which I can’t hold for 15 minutes) and gear 3 would exceed the target and put me in zone 3 (and it would never go below zone 3, like it had a sort of wattage floor at 240w where zone 3 begins for me).

At that point, I had to stop and troubleshooted everything I’ve learned in the TR Forum, to finally be able to workout at zone 2 feeling like I was indeed riding at zone 2. And this time I could stay there even on gear 3 and 4.

Did you ever experience something like that?

I have no clue if shifting gears caused this (or if the Bluetooth got disconnected or what happened???) so I can prevent that from happening in future workouts…

I’m on the same boat… My trainer was reading more power but at least we know now what our true FTP is, pal…